She’s known, and loved, for designing clothes that women truly want to wear, but this season Rejina Pyo’s vision led her down a slightly more corporate path during London Fashion Week than she typically tends to tread.
Sure, there were beautiful dresses and occasional flashes of low-key eveningwear dotted throughout the collection, but for spring/summer 2023 it’s clear that Rejina has got her sights set on the working woman’s wardrobe. Or, rather, the new working woman’s wardrobe.
Because there’s nothing traditionally stuffy about this collection. There are no ill-fitting black blazers or tired-looking off-white shirts. No, this was a display of delicate, feminine tailoring and textural play that is surely set to make her customer fall in love with workwear again.
“One can live magnificently in this world if one knows how to work and how to love”, was the Tolstoy quote referenced by Rejina in this season’s show notes.
“When Tolstoy wrote these words over 100 years ago little thought was given to how women did or could experience love and work – what Freud described as the two cornerstones of our humanness. Today, on the 28th floor of a new addition to the London skyline, against the backdrop of sweeping views across the city we celebrate women and what it means to love and work.”
Soft, sculptural shapes formed the backbone of this collection’s silhouette, while asymmetric hemlines, sheer fabrics and a mild colour palette only exaggerated the delicacy of her SS22 aesthetic.
Of course, there were injections of bold, unapologetic hues, too, punctuating the offering via azure blue tailoring and lime green dresses and proving just how well Rejina Pyo knows her customer.
After all, post-pandemic – and working from home in loungewear 24/7 – it’s going to take something quite special to steer us away from elasticated waistbands. Luckily Rejina served up just that.
For more from Glamour UK’s Fashion Editor Charlie Teather, follow her on Instagram @charlieteather.